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A remodeled primary bathroom with a soaking tub and a walk-in shower

Toto Home Additions & ADU Nationwide

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A remodeled hall bathroom with subway tile and a floating vanity
A remodeled hall bathroom with patterned floor tile and painted walls
A low-threshold walk-in shower with a bench and grab bar
A powder room with botanical wallpaper and a stone sink
A wood double vanity with two mirrors after a bathroom remodel
A finished backyard cottage with a small covered porch
A remodeled living room with built-in shelves around the fireplace
A single-story rear room addition with tall windows and a new patio
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Toto Home Additions & ADU: The Orlando Owner's Guide

We install and build Toto-compatible home additions and ADUs throughout Orlando, and a full addition typically runs $45,000 – $130,000 depending on square footage, foundation work, and finish level. Right now you’re likely standing in a Toto-equipped bathroom or kitchen that’s about to be swallowed by a bigger project, or you’ve got a detached space where a Toto toilet or bidet seat needs supply lines roughed in properly from day one. Either way, the Toto fixture is the easy part. What matters is that the room around it is framed, plumbed, and finished so the fixture never fights the structure. If you’ve been living with a cracked tile, a leaking supply valve, or drywall that’s soft around the base of your Toto toilet, the problem underneath is what the addition has to fix. Here’s what to know before you tear anything out.

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Which Toto Models This Applies To

We work around every Toto line we encounter in Orlando homes: Drake, Drake II, Ultramax, Legato, Nexus, and the Washlet bidet seats that pair with them. The compatibility gotcha most people miss is rough-in. Toto’s standard rough-in is 12 inches from the finished wall to the toilet flange center, but some older Orlando bungalows in College Park and Audubon Park sit at 10 or 14 inches because the original bathrooms were built before modern framing thicknesses existed. If your Toto has an offset flange or a thick tile wall behind it, the new addition’s framing has to account for that before the drywall goes up. We also see Toto skirted models (the Ultramax II, for example) that hide the trapway, which looks cleaner but requires a specific floor clearance during install. For an addition, that means we set the flange height for the finished floor, not the subfloor. Aftermarket supply parts like fill valves and flappers are fine for repairs, but for a permanent addition we spec genuine Toto parts and let you know if the aftermarket equivalent actually holds up in Orlando’s hard water, which can chew through cheap seals in under a year.

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Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
Roofing
Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Toto Home Additions & ADU Is Failing

Most callers describe the same handful of warning signs. Here’s what’s actually happening behind each one:

  • Soft flooring or dark grout around the toilet base. This is a slow supply leak or a failed wax ring. In an addition, it usually means the flange wasn’t set to the right height and water has been wicking into the subfloor for months.
  • A toilet that rocks or shifts when you sit. The flange is loose, the tile is not flat, or the subfloor has started to rot. In a new ADU, rocking is almost always a framing issue, not a Toto issue.
  • Water staining the ceiling below a second-floor bathroom. The wax ring failed or a supply line is weeping. In Orlando’s humid summers, that moisture stays trapped for weeks and rots framing faster than you’d think.
  • Washlet seat losing power or shutting off. In older Orlando homes, the outlet behind the toilet was often added as an afterthought and isn’t GFCI-protected near a water source. That’s a code fix we handle before it becomes a shock hazard.
  • Condensation on the tank that never dries. Orlando’s humidity turns a normal tank sweat into constantly damp drywall. The fix is insulation, a mixing valve, or better ventilation in the addition, not just wiping the tank.
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Replacement Cost & What's Included

Let’s separate two things, because people use “home addition” loosely. A home addition in Orlando runs $45,000 – $130,000. That’s a new room with foundation, framing, electrical, plumbing, drywall, finishes, and usually a new Toto-ready bath or wet area. A garage conversion runs $30,000 – $80,000. A full ADU construction runs $90,000 – $220,000, because it’s a separate structure with its own permits, utilities, and meter. What drives the number: square footage, whether you’re on slab or crawl space, how far the sewer line has to run, and the finish level of the cabinets and countertops (we’ll also quote in KraftMaid, Cambria, and Silestone when the job calls for it). Every quote includes a written price before work starts, a defined arrival window, and our 365-Day Done Right Promise. If something fails inside that year, we come back and fix it at no charge. That’s in writing, on every project, the same way the price is.

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DIY or Call Us?

You can safely do a few things yourself: check that the supply valve behind the toilet turns freely, look for pooling water after a flush, and confirm the Washlet outlet is GFCI-protected. That’s diagnosis, not repair. The dangerous part is what happens when a leaking Toto supply line has been soaking a subfloor in an Orlando addition for a year. The framing under the tile can look fine on the surface and be mush underneath. Cutting into that without knowing whether the floor is load-bearing or whether the leak reached the joists is how a $400 toilet swap becomes a $12,000 structural repair. If you want to check it yourself first, that’s fine. If you’d rather have someone tell you what’s actually wrong and put the fix in writing before a tool comes out, call us at (850) 427-6454. We’ll give you the number first, then pick up the tool.

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A remodeled primary bathroom with a soaking tub and walk-in shower

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